With the onset of hurricane Florence, I’ve put myself in more decently sized waves this week than I can remember. It’s been an eventful swell already, for me and hundreds of other New England surfers, but also a ticking time bomb for our southern friends. With each dive, i’m constantly reminded that the ocean is not a force to be reckoned with lightly. It knocks the breath out of me, literally; fills my ears with water until my brain feels flooded, then, the ocean that is, drips from my nose hours after I’m out of the surf. I’m sure most would agree that bending down to tie your shoes and having a forthcoming puddle of natural saline solution at your feet is annoying. Atleast I think so.
It’s all worth it, however, because in the evening, after a few hours spent surfing, I can’t stop smiling. Talking about this wave or that one. Closing my eyes on a Wednesday morning and daydreaming about something I surfed on Tuesday. Though not my largest paddle out, which came during the above picture’s swell ( No, I wasn’t out that day) yesterday’s 5-8′ session lead to some of the largest drops I’ve taken successfully. The warm water and sliding around in a light and quick summer suit felt majestic. Thank you Florence.