I’ve had plenty of people ask where they are, these waves. How they might find them, when they occur, or if they’re easily accessible. If we’re friends, I might show you someday, one, or maybe two of those water hills which I’ve discovered for myself. But for anyone else, I’ll point our fingers towards the coastline and mutter something like ‘they’re out that way.’ Because some secrets are worth keeping.
With the onset of hurricane Florence, I’ve put myself in more decently sized waves this week than I can remember. It’s been an eventful swell already, for me and hundreds of other New England surfers, but also a ticking time bomb for our southern friends. With each dive, i’m constantly reminded that the ocean is not a force to be reckoned with lightly. It knocks the breath out of me, literally; fills my ears with water until my brain feels flooded, then, the ocean that is, drips from my nose hours after I’m out of the surf. I’m sure most would agree that bending down to tie your shoes and having a forthcoming puddle of natural saline solution at your feet is annoying. Atleast I think so.
It’s all worth it, however, because in the evening, after a few hours spent surfing, I can’t stop smiling. Talking about this wave or that one. Closing my eyes on a Wednesday morning and daydreaming about something I surfed on Tuesday. Though not my largest paddle out, which came during the above picture’s swell ( No, I wasn’t out that day) yesterday’s 5-8′ session lead to some of the largest drops I’ve taken successfully. The warm water and sliding around in a light and quick summer suit felt majestic. Thank you Florence.
If you’re into reading about purveyors of personal propulsion devices (aka watermen), then you’ll know what these are. Come hell or high water? Avocado Coast proudly presents the Baked Potato hand plane lineup for body surfing. It’s a sport, I swear, just look up Mark Cunningham. These are on sale at Aquaholics Surf Shop in Kennebunk, Maine and although not quite selling like southern hot cakes, I did see a young grom try it on today while in the shop. It was rewarding to say the least. Artwork and shaping both done by myself. Wood lay up is Cedar x Maple stringer.
For those outside of the rather exclusive sustainable surf community, wooden surfboards have been gaining in popularity all over the world, as a re-evolution or reversal on the toxic crap that floods the surfing industry, then the consumer, and then our oceans.
Continue reading “Tree to Sea”